THE LOWDOWN

Located in a sublimely beautiful spot overlooking the Malvern Hills, The Cottage in the Wood has an enchanting name that matches its seriously storybook setting. Nestled in eight acres of wild woodland on the eastern side of this famed AONB hill range, pack those walking boots, because you’ll need them – you’re a footstep away from nine miles of stunning trails to explore.

The Cottage in the Wood has roots dating back in 1791 (it started life as a gentrified Tearoom) but these days it’s independently owned by husband and wife duo Nick and Julia Davies. Working as management consultants living in Shoreditch at the time, they snapped up the hotel in 2015 and set about zhush-ing it up.

The result is a complete style overhaul, from stylish bedrooms to a state-of-the-art kitchen in Restaurant 1919, where Head Chef Rob Mason works his magic.

Quintessentially a rural retreat, you get the best of both worlds, as the well-heeled spa town of Malvern with its artisan boutiques, cafés and bars is only minutes away.

The Malverns area has famously inspired literary celebs from the centuries – from Tolkien to C.S. Lewis – and the approach to the hotel certainly sets an enchanting scene. Several dramatic hair pin bends (hold on to your dash!) take you up to a ridge where the CITW’s cluster of elegant white buildings jut out from the lush, woodland backdrop.

Once here, take your pick from 32 individually styled rooms – spread across three buildings, dine at the 3AA Rosette 1919 restaurant and, new for 2024, chill out on the heated Terrace which has astonishing views across the Severn Valley and Cotswolds beyond.

THE VIBE

The literary-chic look is strong here. The Cottage in the Wood has had a gradual makeover since 2015 by a London-based design studio, and the result is a contemporary redesign with loads of nods to its history.

The main Reception has bookcases sprinkled with old classics and the Elgar Hallway (once a local) gives Victorian vibes in trunkfuls. It’s actually quite a small place, but its bijou size gives it an appealing, homely atmosphere. We sunk into comfy, hugging velvety armchairs in the cosy bar for a pre-dinner cocktail or two and it was the perfect spot for chilling with awesome views.

The 1919 dining room is the crowning glory, with elegant armchairs, statement wallpaper dripping with exotic birds, and floor to ceiling windows, talk about a roux with a view! I could have happily sat here all day drinking in the views.

The Coach House, where most of the bedrooms are, is peppered with cool cultural accents (Kate Moss was hanging outside my room), along with records and pops of quirky art. Turns out a who’s who of popstels have stayed here over the years, from Adam Ant to The Who, and the hotel wears that heritage with pride.

When I visited there were lots of people enjoying the new canopied Terrace, which is now fully heated. From walkers and locals to cyclists and tourists staying over, it’s a great all-season spot for cocktails or full-on dining.

If you have one thing though try a ‘rock and roll’ cocktail. Another cool nod to its pop history, the Champagne based ‘Summer Stones’ tipple was created for Rolling Stones drummer Charlie Watts who used to stay at the hotel every summer.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Consider yourself a foodie? Permission to get excited. At the 3AA Rosette restaurant 1919, led by Head Chef Rob Mason, you’re in for one of the best meals of your life.

Mason was part of the team that acquired a Michelin star at Peel’s Restaurant at Hampton Manor not so long ago, and he brings this passion to CITW (lucky us!) You can choose from two dinner menus – three courses for £59pp, or go all out with the Tasting Menu, £85pp + wine flight. This nine-course thriller sounded pretty special, so I buckled in for the ride.

You’re in for a smash hit of dishes. Some of the highlights include: the Bread course, this homemade seeded loaf comes with smoked cod roe and Ampersand butter, utterly delicious with lovely rustic vibes (the waitress brought a vegan butter alternative without batting an eyelid when I asked).

Next was the Trout course, home-cured chalk stream trout with dill and buttermilk horseradish, which was incredibly moorish. The Parfait course, with slivers of preserved Yorkshire rhubarb and gingerbread was a triumph, what a heavenly combination, with the most fantastic riot of flavours.

Cornish Monkfish was up next, the one I had been salivating about trying, and holy moly, it does not disappoint. The fish itself was melt in the mouth perfection, combined with the frothiest, punchy curried monkfish sauce you’ll want to bathe in it’s so good.

The Lamb course followed next, Herefordshire lamb from over the border with ewes curd and wild garlic – winning a big thumbs up for the rustic and foraged flavours in this one from my feasting partner.

Still with me? Loosen that waistband! There’s more. Mains over with, it was Cheese course time, a Jenga-like dish of 10/10 delicious Colston Basset Blue paired with Hazelnut & Treacle Cake with Celery and Grape. This masterful combo was utterly dreamy and an inspiring uplift from your standard cheese offering.

Topping it all off, we somehow found room for the three Dessert courses; a dreamily creamy yet light Pannacotta, followed by Lemon – a lovely fresh-tasting honey cake with meringue which was just divine – and Chocolate, a 64% Manjari Chocolate Cremeux with pecans, salted caramel and a dash of the sweetest Pedro Ximénez sherry. Each one was seriously scrumptious.

Every last morsel of this Tasting feast is quite incredible and the whole experience is more akin to a swanky-pants Mayfair restaurant the artistry is so next level. For two hours of non-stop dining, the price is extraordinarily good, I’ve tried tasting menus at double that price at local restaurants before.

Seasonal, mostly local, ingredients do the talking here, with pickling and fermenting being a big part of Rob’s cooking style, and he uses the local Worcestershire larder brilliantly to create a menu that puts the OG into gastro.

1919 has just won the Taste of Worcestershire Award 2024 for the second year running, and that kind of tells you all you need to know, this place is heaven for anyone who loves seriously good food.

There’s a lunch menu for lighter daytime grazing, and there’s also a well thought out range of dishes for vegetarians, vegans, and the gluten-free, and children get their own special menu too, priced at a pretty reasonable £15 for three courses.

Service at the hotel was consistently en-pointe too, warm and friendly without being OTT, all food questions are answered with confidence (and I had a lot poor things) and courses are all delivered with a smile and were removed efficiently. General Manager Michael Pearson and the waiting staff were exceptional, making us feel really well looked after.

Breakfast is a small but well curated selection, with Full English or Vegetarian options and big portions. I could only manage the Natural Yoghurt with Fresh Fruit and Granola after the night before! But the coffee was excellent, and oh that view over a morning macchiato… simply idyllic.

I didn’t have time (ok, room) to try it, but there’s a lovely looking Afternoon Tea here too, priced at £28pp, or upgrade to a feast with bubbles for £39pp.

PILLOW TALK

Bedtime options are split between the Main House (7 rooms), the Coach House (19 rooms) and the environmentally savvy Beech Cottage with a handy electric car port outside if you’re in the plug-in crowd.

There are five types of rooms, from Cosy to Best. I stayed in a Classic Room in the Coach House (top tip, leave the luggage in the car if you are too, otherwise you’ll have to drag it all the way back again!). Each room is decorated with individual charm, stylish muted colours, and simple Campaign-style furniture, but with all the home comforts you need, including cookie treats, tea and coffee. I even had a vintage record player with some LPs which was a cool retro touch.

The bed although not enormous (upgrade to a Best Room for a super King-size bed and a patio or balcony to lounge on) was very comfy, and the pillows were feathery and gorgeous – a big bugbear of mine usually. I had the most glorious sunset in the evening from my window, which was just perfect to take in with a glass of wine in hand.

The bathroom was elegant and spotlessly clean and with a deep roll top bath that I sank into for hours, pampering myself with handfuls of Bramley toiletries. You will need to walk outside back to the Main House to get to breakfast, but that’s the only downside, and with those views, who’s going to complain.

OUT AND ABOUT

This place is sheer heaven for walkers, hikers, cyclists and dog-owners. Perched on the eastern side of the Malverns, it has one of the best locations I’ve ever checked into for nature lovers.

I decided to sling on the trainers and walk up to the top after breakfast, armed with a map from hotel reception with key points including bench stops, it was the most stunning of walks. Make it to the top and you’re treated to views all over the Severn Valley and the Vale of Evesham towards the Cotswolds. I really think the Malverns and Worcestershire beacon should be on everyone’s bucket list, I was literally blown away by the panorama.

I did the whole loop easily in 45 minutes and I’m no Jo Wicks, so it’s perfect for non-hikey types too, or even families with all-terrain buggies.

When you’re all walked out, pop into the Victorian spa town of Malvern, with its boutique, cafés and bars, or visit the home of the famous Morgan car at the Morgan Motor Company for a guided tour of the working factory.

See a show at the Malvern Theatres, which attracts big-hitter shows from London and nearby Croome Court designed by Capability Brown is a lovely visit. Want to go further afield? Do the Elgar Route – a 40-mile circular driving route through Worcester and Great Malvern, takes in places associated with his life and works.

Explore the pretty riverside town of Upton upon Severn which isn’t far away and the historic market town of Ledbury. And, if you’re here in the summer, make sure you go tiptoe through the Confetti Flower Fields in nearby Pershore – acres of incredible stunning petals, total fire for Instgram.

KID FRIENDLY?

Absolutely, kids of all ages from babies to teens are welcomed warmly here, there are no interlocking rooms, but you can stay as a family in Beech Cottage and 1919 does a good value kids’ menu, with highchairs readily available.

DOG FRIENDLY?

Yes, but with a caveat. CITW is pet-friendly and there’s no weight or size restriction, just a max of two pets per room. Dogs are allowed in the pet-friendly rooms only which have access to the outside. However they are not allowed in the Main House or lounge bar which was a bit of a shame, as I’d definitely come here for the doggo walks. But you can take them into the heated Terrace – where you can also now dine – so there are options.

ACCESSIBILITY

CITW has wheelchair-accessible rooms. One of these in the Coach House has dedicated parking, ramp access and a fully accessible, roll-in shower with bars and sitting facilities. There are also other rooms that are accessible (no stairs to access) with bath and shower facilities not modified for accessibility.

The Damage

We had the nine-course Tasting Menu meal for 2 costing £85pp, but if you want something cheaper, the bar snack menu has toasties that start at £12.50. A 3-course Sunday Lunch with all the trimmings costs £34. There is an extensive and highly quaffable wine and Champagne menu, with bottles starting at £24.

MUDDY VERDICT

GOOD FOR: Foodies, romantics and nature lovers will be on cloud nine here. It’s a lovely, relaxed place for a get-together with a view with friends or family. If you appreciate deep sleep, dramatic views, charming decor, attentive service and food that deserves a Michelin star – you’ve hit the jackpot.

NOT FOR: If you’re not menu-adventurous The Cottage in the Wood won’t be your jam, but you’ll want to push yourself out of your culinary comfort zone here. Spa lovers should look elsewhere, you can order an in-room treatment from a local therapist, but there’s no spa or hot tub here.

Check it out in our reel on Instagram here!

The Cottage in the Wood, Holywell Rd, Malvern Wells, Malvern WR14 4LG.

Review: The Cottage in the Wood, Malvern

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